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Each week, Justin Bitner goes hunting for DFW’s most interesting sandwiches. Have a sandwich suggestion? Leave it in the comments and he’ll check it out.
Venue: Eno’s Pizza Tavern
Sandwich: Gotham Kitchen ($6)
Bread: House-baked roll lightly buttered and toasted
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Toppings: House-made Italian beef, hot peppers, pickled vegetables, spicy broth for dunking on the side
The Case:The ‘Wich Trials started off the year with a trip to the hydrochlorically-hot Bishop Arts District. With the future in-laws in tow, we decided to hit Eno’s Pizza Tavern, which you’ll no doubt remember won Best Upstairs way back in 2010.
Taking the cedar-lined stairway up to the table, we were seated with an excellent view of Bishop Avenue. They’ve installed a couple of TVs since our “Best Upstairs” award, but they don’t distract from the fine wood paneling and furniture. Snapping out of my lumber-addled trance, I snagged the beer menu and noticed a solid deal. The fantastic Oskar Blues G’Knight Imperial Red Ale, at $5 a pint and 8.7% ABV, is practically larceny. With my choice of brew locked in, it was time to settle on a sandwich.
Opting for the beef-packed Gotham Kitchen, I was pleased to be given a good-sized metal bowl with the handsome sandwich and accompanying broth. The sandwich isn’t a scale-tipper by any means, but it’s a great rendition of an Italian beef sandwich. The bread, soft and buttery, holds up to the toppings and broth nicely. The peppers and vegetables add an awakening kick, offset by the smooth saltiness of the churning broth. The thinly sliced beef is juicy and sops up the delicious beef stock with aplomb. All the dunking and devouring had me feeling like Vince Carter back in his heyday.
Verdict: Eno’s Gotham Kitchen rung in 2012 with a fine sandwich. Stay tuned next year, same ‘Wich Time, same ‘Wich channel.
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