Audio By Carbonatix
I couldn’t sit on it anymore. Way back in January someone slipped me the news that one of Dallas’ greatest Reubens was gone. The Cock & Bull’s Reuben was legendary. I called Asher Stevens, the chef responsible for the sandwich, to find out the deal.
Stevens: My vendor stopped supplying it. It hasn’t been on the menu for eight months.
Critic: Will you be bringing the Reuben back?
Stevens: Only if I can find the same product.
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Me: Fuck Kobe dude, why do you care?
Stevens: Fat content… It’s juicy.
Me: Oh.
Uncomfortable pause
Me: Well what’s gonna replace it?
Stevens: Complete new menu, man.
Me: Well that’s cool, can I get a copy?
But the menu never came. Months later the place was still working the transition and the “Reuben Melt” called from the plastic-protected menu like a picture of a lost loved one — haunting my memories and hindering my grieving process. I was preparing to do a goofy obit for therapeutic purposes, and give up on the sandwich entirely, but I decided to call one last time.
I’m glad I did; the Reuben is back.
“I’m doing business with Broadleaf Kobe Farm,” Stevens said when I asked him where he’s getting the new corned beef. The chef gets the briskets in raw, lets them soak in a brine for a few hours and then carefully simmers the meat for three hours before chilling and slicing it. Gruyere cheese and kraut finish off the sandwich that I haven’t tried yet, but soon will. (I’m seriously thinking about shuffling my evening dinner plans.)
Stevens said he’d send me a pdf of the menu soon. If it comes I’ll give you an update.
