Basketball announcer Marv Albert’s brief conversation with Marco Polo’s ghost: Marv: You’ve had a hell of a career. The silk road. Working the zone for head Mongol Kublai Khan. Playing some devastating offense at Hsiang-yang during the siege by the Mongol hordes. And then you did some time in prison…
The thousands of miles separating Milan from Saigon are hardly felt just east of downtown Dallas. Natives call the neighborhood Old East Dallas or Little Asia, the developers building $350,000 townhouses a couple of blocks away call it the Upper East Side, but Italian restaurateur Alessio Franceschetti calls it his…
MapQuest can’t digest Southlake Town Square. Punch in one of its Plaza Place addresses, and it strings you across the Mid-Cities, threads you through Fort Worth and dead-ends you in a residential area near a place called Lake Worth. Or at least it did on my first aborted visit to…
It’s 100 degrees outside, and the air smells like a dirty diaper, but stinking compost aside, this small farm has an understated allure about it. The sheer gargantuan size of the beefsteak tomatoes and the way the shooting corn crops dance against the horizon make the place seem almost Disney-like…
Tryst (the word) arouses with lascivious implications. A flood of them. The head swims in the salacious stew. Say the word. Tryst. Notice how sticky it is. Bound tightly between a pair of identical rigid consonants, tryst promises furtive sensuality. Tryst Restaurant & Bar draws on this promise, flaunts it…
Cajun used to mean exotic. Twenty-five years ago, before Chef Paul Prudhomme foisted his blackened redfish on gustatory history–giving lesser cooks license to char stuff to an ebony crisp and call it Southern cuisine–we could find really fine Cajun cooking, and its New Orleans cousin, Creole, only down in the…
Enter Cryovac. Invented years ago by a company called Sealed Air, which distributes everything from bubble wraps to extruded plank foams, Cryovac vacuum shrink bags revolutionized food packaging by injecting a burst of freshness into fish, meats and poultry sent through the distribution chain to the table. So it was…
It used to be a Dairy Queen, which helps explain the Sunday-Monday-Happy-Days feeling inside Starfish Seafood Diner. Walk up to the counter to scan the menu board and you’ll see a smiling guy in a white paper hat. A paper hat! That’s Tom McCoy, co-owner with partner Hank Branstetter of…
Pinned to the server’s starched white jacket lapel is a long narrow ruby bar trimmed in gold–a ruby sliver really. Guest: Tell me about your red bar. Waiter: This is the red “i” in Bice. Guest: Say it again. Bee-shay? Waiter: Bice. Guest: Bee-say? Bee-jay? Bee-shay? Waiter: It’s like Beach,…
The European twists are there, to be sure: truffles, snails, pâté and Parma prosciutto. There’s a sort of winsome arrogance to the BLT, which is composed of brie, lettuce and tomato. In a sign of still more haute haughtiness, you can order the BLT with bacon–for an extra buck. But…
If you don’t like to eat in public, Aqua Italian Bistro and Bar is just about perfect. Think of it as a don’t-see-anyone/won’t-be-seen kind of place. On two visits, a weekday dinner and a weekend lunch, we find cavernous Aqua sitting empty. “Are you open?” I ask, squinting into the…
Steak–damn straight–is the mother’s milk of Dallas dining. When imagination fails you, when the prospect of culinary risk numbs the cojones, when the anxiety of outfitting a restaurant without mahogany, polished brass and frosted glass tulip blooms over chandelier bulbs paralyzes you, it’s best to load up on 1,800-degree broilers,…
Let’s put aside pup tents for a moment. The American cowboy is an icon of rugged individualism coupled with stalwart determination, plus a little recklessness thrown in. The cowboy myth is embodied in the stoic, emotionally distant adventurer. You feel it at Cattleman’s Steakhouse. The moniker on the canopy over…
It’s easy to get a sense of where the cash registers rang up cups of coffee and pouches of teriyaki jerky. You can tell by the cameras fastened to the ceiling tiles. Four of them are visible, and their site lines converge on an area near the four banquettes lined…
Neighborhood joints, whether bar or restaurant, have always been difficult to define in broad strokes. A few become notable culinary destinations with adept staff and stunning dishes. More operate on our lives as Robert Frost’s mending wall. They set unnatural borders and bind locals with the dull safety of ritual…
have seen the metamorphosis, the changes in customer behavior.” –Dante Picazo Before Dante Picazo began his quest to tickle American tongues with a full deck of Latin flavors, he was running a small bingo room and a couple of blackjack tables at Station Casino Hotels in Las Vegas. This taught…
Partial transcript from group therapy session, Baylor University Medical Center, March 15, 2006. …screamed in agony. It was like someone, you know, some weed-smoking, tie-dyed vegan took a pair of tweezers and ripped the veins right out of my epidermis. Bibb lettuce: You mean they burn us and breathe the…
Parking is hard, so this tells you something. Every slot contains a car–Mercedes, BMW, Lexus and so on. A manager in a crisp suit strolls out onto the patio to direct. No valet on weekdays. But it’s OK to park in the dim strip mall across 7th Street, he says…
Let’s try out that old Sesame Street game, shall we? One of these things is not like the others; one of these things just doesn’t belong. Did you guess a neighborhood sushi restaurant in Cowtown? Maybe a popular Japanese destination owned by a native of Taiwan who received her culinary…
Centuries before it was a place to down lobster shooters or short ribs ringed in heirloom red potato hash, a restaurant was a thing to sip, not a place. A restaurant was a restorative broth, a tiny cup of bouillon or, more likely, a thick meat essence of partially digested…
McKinney’s culinary culture has had a couple of peculiarities over the recent years. Witness the Prison, circa 2000. The Prison was a New American restaurant fashioned out of the circa 1880 Collin County jail. Frank James, brother of Jesse, booked a room there, as did Raymond Hamilton, a member of…
The most significant challenge in restaurateuring has little to do with fortunes big or small, lost or stolen. That comes later, maybe after décor. Café San Miguel has a deep blue marine bar with a porthole housing a metal star. Christmas lights are strung from the ceiling. The barstools look…
