The Odd Charm of Melios Char Bar

There are a few things to absorb when you enter Melios Char Bar on Greenville. There’s the board that announces the chicken-fried steak special, hand-drawn and bordered with cartoon vines. There’s the classic, bold ’80s GYROS sign in Santorini blue. Bulging firehouse brick is stacked behind the short order cook…

The Perfect Midnight Snack: Velvet Taco’s Red Velvet Cake

It’s midnight on Saturday night and you’ve been out on the town getting likkered up. You’re not ready for the night to end, so where do you go? You could swing by the Taco Bell drive-thru, but you’d probably regret that decision in the morning. Plus, they don’t have beer…

Cucina Neighborhood Italian Is Not the Red-Sauce Savior Dallas Needs

Americans have an unhealthy obsession with Italian cooking: Unhealthy not only because the American interpretation of boot-food features an excess of mozzarella, Parmigiano-Reggiano and meat, but also because Italian American is one of the most popular imported cuisines. The pizza served stateside may bear little resemblance to the rounds served…

Bijoux Is Closing

Scott and Gina Gottlich, owners of Bijoux in Inwood Village, have announced the closure of their small French restaurant. The couple says they are closing Bijoux to focus their energy on their other restaurant, The Second Floor in the Galleria. Which means the veal cheeks terribly depicted above will no…

Coming Soon to Greenville Avenue: C’viche, a Sea of Seafood and Booze

Randall Warder’s second restaurant on Greenville Avenue will officially open its doors February 10, he said this week. C’viche, which will serve ceviche, lands on the heels of Clark Food and Wine, which Warder opened late last year next door. Clark offers a variety of smoked meats, sides and appetizers…

The Cheeseburger at Remedy Is Your Destiny

Remedy Burger? My density has brought me to you. What I meant to say is: I’m your destiny. I’m sitting at a table on the clangy metal second floor of Remedy, the new upscale homage to a soda fountain on Greenville, and all I can think about is George McFly’s…

Oso Food & Wine Is Full of Surprises, But They’re Not All Good Ones

One of the most effective tools in a chef’s arsenal is the element of surprise. Whether by disguising one dish as another to alter perception and fool the palate, or by combining flavors and textures in ways that defy expectations, these little direction-changes have a tendency to become lasting food…

A First Look at Henderson Avenue Country Club

A few weeks ago, Henderson Avenue Country Club opened its doors. The space was previously occupied by Nick Badovinus’ Tried and True, which closed last year. The Country Club is brought to you by the same folks that opened nearby Henderson Avenue Taproom, whose customers spilled out onto the patio…

Barter, in Uptown, Has Closed

“This will be our last weekend at Barter,” started the Facebook post that announced the second restaurant to close at 3232 McKinney Ave. The address was first home to the much-hyped Private Social, which opened in 2011 and closed two years later. Barter had an even shorter run. The closures…

The Burger at Henry’s Majestic Is a Badass Power Chord

The bar at Henry’s Majestic is all subway tiles, wood-paneling and exposed piping — it’s got the feel of old New York. On the night I pulled out a barstool, I was one of the first to arrive. I sat close enough to the mixologist’s herbs to smell them, and…

Ramen Hakata: Noodle-Bowl Bliss in a Suburban Strip-Mall Box

There are many ways to disguise a restaurant located in the aesthetic black hole of a strip mall, but most designers start with the windows. When used properly, drapes, blinds and window tints wrap the dining room in a shroud, creating a cocoon that transports customers far from the concrete…

Clark Food & Wine Co. Moves to its Own Rhythm

Clark Food & Wine Co. is a difficult restaurant to pin down. The name suggests a casual but refined eatery — a California bistro, maybe? — and some of the plates leaving the kitchen support that guess. Roasted beets with goat cheese are plated with artistry and flair, and asparagus…