Searching for Dallas’ Best Ice Cream Sandwiches

The Observer’s food critic, Scott Reitz, said recently that there’s no such thing as a good ice cream sandwich. He said this in private, but I am making these statements public, because they deserve examination. His take: The cookies are too hard, the ice cream squishes out when you take…

A First Look at El Bolero

Just like Oak and Pakpao, the two Aphelia Restaurant group restaurants that preceded it, El Bolero makes an exceedingly good first impression. There’s stone and tile work everywhere in the new Design District space, with each installation lending color and texture. The front patio is wrapped in cinderblock walls, with…

2015 Big D BBQ Battle: Just Call Me the Barbecue Arbiter

Who knew this writing-about-barbecue thing would lead to shoulder-rubbing with the upper-most layer of Dallas’ upper-crust elite this quickly? I was invited into the secret cabal of about 30 judges for Friday’s Big D BBQ Battle, which regrettably had to be cut short due to rain at about 7 p.m…

A Story of Taco Bell’s New Breakfast in Our Time

Zero Hour was for typing. It was middle school in the ’90s, and a couple of days a week I was in “zero hour” class, which meant it was before-the-sun early, and involved typing meaningless phrases to bolster my words-per-minute score. A sheet of paper rested over the tops of…

Letter from London: What Texas Barbecue Tastes Like Overseas

Gavin Cleaver is the former web editor and clueless barbecue correspondent of the Dallas Observer. He lives in England Great Britain the UK somewhere over there ——> Hello from overseas. I hear you’ve been having some weather. Well, I’m here to inform all of you that you are now considered…

A First Look at Yucatan Taco Stand, Now Open on Greenville Avenue

Welcome to Dallas, Yucatan Taco Stand (2023 Greenville Ave), though you’re not really a stand at all. You’re a full blown restaurant complete with a copper-clad bar, a spacious patio and enough tequila to erase any memory that you or any other taco stand ever existed, ever. See also: BBBop…

A First Look at Sugar Skull, Trinity Groves’ New Taqueria

Yet another Trinity Groves restaurant opened this week. The culinary hatchery filled out the final space on the front of the main building, just past Resto Gastro Bistro, with a new taqueria called Sugar Skull Cafe. It’s the first restaurant in Trinity Groves to specialize in breakfast food alongside lunch…

AJ’s on Main: Nice Meats, Nicer Treats in Downtown Grapevine

We are generally skeptical of menu items labeled “poppers.” I mean, we’re not doing any first looks at Chili’s anytime soon. But the chicken poppers at AJ’s on Main in Grapevine have a way of making skeptical heads turn. Crunchy bacon encapsulates a longways jalapeno slice and a chunk of…

Spin! Pizza, DFW’s Newest Pizza Import, Is Now Open in Richardson

On Saturday, Kansas City-based Spin! Pizza began pizza-bombing the Lone Star State with its grand opening in Richardson. This is the first of four locations slated to launch in Texas (with Southlake, Irving, and SMU to follow), offering Neapolitan-style pizza in a fast-casual environment. The menu is loaded with options…

The Burgers at Spork Need to Phone Home

There are a lot of things to love about Spork. There’s the mystifying theme of alien abduction: The bathroom doors show “men” and “women” icons beaming up to an alien saucer. A tiny Spork logo on the menu reads “A Message from Space” in Forbidden Planet font. The beer list…

Brunch Lesson #32: Fry It and Put It on a Waffle

You know you’ve taken gluttony to a new level when your waitress calls you a fatty. She said it in the kindest, most familial way possible but at its core her comment stung with the icy saber of truth. And yet, I feel my order-logic was sound: If a waffle…