Nice Thai

If there’s anything that can be said about Addison Circle, that fabricated suburban urban village that sprang up like a tax shelter around a huge blue metal sculpture composed of supine spindles, it’s that it breeds restaurants with a gerbil-like prolificacy. There’s Antonio Ristorante, Kampai Sushi & Grill, Avanti Euro…

Red, red whine

There’s a banner outside of Red Onion Bistro in Denton making note of its “adventurous wine and beer list.” This is like pulling up to a men’s boutique and seeing an unfurled banner that says “adventurous leisure suits.” If you have to call out your daring sensibilities, you ain’t got…

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Cork screw It seems Julie Stevens and Clancy Martin (the latter of whom is part owner of Martin’s Custom Jewelers in Arlington) have pulled out of Cork, the wine and cheese bar they opened on McKinney Avenue in the spring of last year. Only they did more than that: They…

More pixie dust, please

You see the red horse everywhere, and not only on gas pumps. It’s on buildings. In parks. In shopping malls. And now it’s become a restaurant: one each in Dallas and Fort Worth. Folks rattle on with painful seriousness about this bit of iconography, about how it symbolizes Dallas and…

Strip seafood

Excellent Seafood & Grill is an exercise in suburban utility. It’s Spartan, efficient, and loaded with functionality, the primary example being the $5.49 lunch specials. For a fin and four bits you can get blackened snapper with baked potato, teriyaki chicken on rice, or fried clam strips with French fries…

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Bastille blip It would have been fitting. But Whit Meyers of the Entertainment Collaborative (Green Room, Gypsy Tea Room) says the hoped-for opening of their brasserie Jeroboam on Bastille Day (July 14) most likely won’t roll. The sticky wicket appears to be a small piece of air-conditioning equipment that has…

Pyramid platitudes

After tasting Pyramid Grill’s steak tartare, a huge mound of milky pink pulp shaped like a loaf of rye bread, I began to wonder: Why does so much of the tartare served in Dallas, no matter what its species, taste like something plumbed from a bedeviled little Underwood can? So…

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Village strokes The great thing about Dallas is the seeming ease with which people morph into independent restaurateurs. Consider former country club chefs Claude Judd and Curtis Higgins. They’ve abandoned slinging silage for the fairway set and set their sights on feeding those of us who wouldn’t know the difference…

Eurotrash pickup

Avanti Euro Bistro owner Jack Ekhtiar describes his new restaurant in Addison Circle in a way that is wholly at odds with its appearance. He says he wanted to create a restaurant and bar that was causally elegant, a place where people could be comfortable and enjoy quiet conversation without…

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Fish fissure Bill Baine, who along with Randy DeWitt co-founded Rockfish Seafood Grill parent See-Worthy Restaurants (which either means restaurants with good eye-chart test scores or watertight restaurants with poor spelling test scores), recently chucked his 49.9 percent interest in the company for a price that included Half Shells Oyster…

Wingless horsey

If you want to give a restaurant a stress test in basics, go to dinner with a bunch of computer geeks, ones drooling with fickleness. That’s what I did, a trio of them, with clearly expressed systems specializations: hardware, software, and training. Never before did I realize that hoisting digits…

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Got beef? Lena Rumore, ex-wife of Dallas steakhouse mogul Dale Wamstad (III Forks, Del Frisco’s), will get a shot at the skillful restaurateur’s beefy wallet. On May 26, the Louisiana Supreme Court denied Wamstad’s attempt to derail his ex-wife’s damage suit seeking a portion of the $22.7 million doled out…

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Elementary Watson Edgar Watson has had little Dallas restaurant fits and starts for years. In 1983 he launched Adriano’s in the Quadrangle (where Dream Café is now), a restaurant he calls “the original yuppie Italian spot in Dallas” (where have all the yuppie Italians gone?). Adriano’s was also hailed as…

Old war-horse

Among the few things that are striking about The Old Warsaw, that stalwart fine-dining venue founded in 1949 by Polish diplomat Stanley Slawik, is the Café Pierre ($9.50). It’s hard to get a grip on the exact formula and the preparation from a distance; it’s blended on a cart in…

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Venus fling trap Venus Steakhouse & Supper Club, the new “cheek-to-cheek” dining and dancing lounge spawned by Shelly Dowdy, formerly of the FoodStar Restaurant Group, will open June 6 in the TGI Friday’s space on Lemmon Avenue at Douglas. And it looks like Dowdy has squirreled away some FoodStar refugees…

Slam dunk

, 3309 Dallas Parkway, Suite 401, Plano 75093 (972) 608-1883. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.- 11 p.m. Friday; 2-11 p.m. Saturday; 2-10 p.m. Sunday $$-$$$

Fill ‘er up

Many things have been crafted from old gas stations: coffee bars, topiary shops, car bra boutiques, bootleg 8-track dealers, galleries with fuzzy black light paintings. But a tapas bar has to be among the most original. Yet this is exactly what Ildefonso Jimenez–a key player in the founding of Café…

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Tuscan lurch It’s hard to tell how the once-trendy Tuscan glamour hut known as Toscana, shuttered since mid-February, will be resuscitated. One rumor, at least, seems to have legs, and that is that ex-Sfuzzi pros Michael Costa and Dean McSherry, creators of the consulting firm DMC Hospitality, will attempt to…

Spanish inquisition

Honchos at the Stoneleigh Hotel, onetime home of the classic continental room Ewald’s and purveyor of some of the best sushi in Dallas, have decided to sharpen the culinary edges in this circa-1923 hotel. So they shuttered Ewald’s, the dining room launched by longtime Dallas chef Ewald Scholz, hung a…

Ten-gallon beret

Naming a restaurant after a breed of cattle might seem like a perfectly reasonable thing to do in Texas, the No. 1 state in cattle production. But when you look at the Charolais, a breed of cattle originally from France (and named for a district in that country), you have…

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UnShared Vision Looks like chef Robert Auston’s laudable quest for the crapless 12-ounce steak has been thwarted. Last week I reported that Auston, founder of Ianos Trattoria and partner with Tim Hager in Shared Vision, the company that owns Mediterraneo and the shuttered Toscana, was on the verge of transforming…

Bite this

Bizú (which means little kiss in French) kissed off, and it’s not hard to see why. Though the transformed McKinney Avenue space that was once the home of Sfuzzi and Coco Pazzo was sexy and smart in all its mirrored, votive-candled, organza-draped glory, the food was iffy, especially for the…